Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Silver-copper mokume gane pictorial.

Just came back from the shop, where I made my first silver-copper mokume gane billet. It turned out really good, which probably means this combination is hard to mess up...
So here is a short pictorial of what I did.

You need pretty hefty torque plates made out of stainless steel. Paint the faces with yellow ochre so the metals don't stick to them.

11 layers of fine silver and copper.

Cleaning the faces and exposing fresh metal with a scotch brite pad. Works just fine, and is pretty quick.

 Clean off any grease by dipping them in acetone, then rinse with water and dry.

Making sure you don't touch the faces, stack them up between the torque plates.

Compress them as much as you can, and tighten the bolts again, to keep this pressure on the billet. 
In this case the pressure was over 1 ton/cm2!

Stick them in a small forge or kiln, with a small burner... you need to keep the temp below 778 C, where the eutectic alloy between silver and copper melts, and everything turns gooey. 

Let it soak for about an hour, turning it around occasionally to even out the temperature. Also try to keep a reducing atmosphere in the forge as much as you can (I found out it's important but not critical).
What is important is to closely monitor the temperature, hence a pyrometer is needed. Try to insert the probe between the steel plates, as close as possible to the billet.

Finally after some trimming and sanding here is a healthy billet without any delamination. Oh, I also presssed it once more after it dropped down to black heat.

Good Luck!

6 comments:

  1. what is this yellow ochre? It's an ink? or grease?
    thanks.

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  2. It is yellow ochre (gouache water paint). You can also use BLANCO text correction fluid. Basically, any kind of paint that is water soluble, and has some body to act as a resist so that the stack does not bond to the steel plates.

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  3. Hay !
    Interesting is possible to sale some mokume for knife bolsters ? Please interesting in prices with shipping in Europa for plate 10x10cm ( silver , copper )
    or colored damascus steel ? Thank you R.J
    my mail is kmontever@gmail.com

    ReplyDelete
  4. Πολύ καλό tutorial, παρόλα αυτά στην πρώτη μου προσπάθεια δεν κόλλησαν :(

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Το δεύτερο πιο σημαντικό είναι να είναι καθαρά τα μέταλλα.
      Το πρώτο είναι να μην φτάσει οξυγόνο σε αυτά μέσα στο καμίνι. Άρα πρέπει να είναι μέσα στη φλόγα συνέχεια.
      Το tutorial είναι λίγο παλιό,έχω προχωρήσει και σε άλλες μεθόδους, όπως το να τα αφήσεις να θερμαίνονται μέχρι να δεις στις ενώσεις να υγροποιείται, ίσως και να αρχίσει να ρέει λίγο μέταλλο στα πλάγια, οπότε τα βγάζεις αμέσως.

      Delete
  5. Hi, love your website and your work.
    Can I ask how thick the layers/plates are, 1mm?
    Oops I painted mine with yellow ochre oil paint, can that do harm to mij plates.
    So I have to keep it in for around a hour at 770 degrees C.

    Greetings, Thanh

    ReplyDelete